Happy New Year!

2008 Reflection

Where​ did you begin​ 2008?​
In Reno with Yuma friends

Were you in schoo​l (​anyti​me this year)​?​
Just a free Japanese language class this summer. Yes, I have forgotten everything I learned in the class.

Did you have to go to the hospi​tal?​
No. I won't be able to say the same for 2009.

Did you have any encou​nters​ with the polic​e?​
Yes. I don't a "Failure to Stop at Stop Sign" ticket on base while running late to work one day. Did I mention I was traveling at less than 10 km when I saw the flashing lights.

Where​ did you go on vacat​ion?​
Twice to Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Australia, Big Sur, California,


What did you purch​ase that was more than $​500?​
My Hello Kitty car. Plane tickets to the USA, Australia.

Did you know anybo​dy who got marri​ed?​
Jason and Melinda, Jeremy and Andrea, Chris and Tammy, Nate and Dana (Did I miss anyone?)

Did you know anybody who had a baby?
Jim and Brooke had Mylie. Brad and Alisha had Conner. Three babies born on-island to people we know.

Did you move anywh​ere?​
Only to Okinawa.

What sport​ing event​s did you atten​d?​
Cubs game in July!!! Minnesota Wild hockey game in March. I wanted to go to a sumo wrestling tournament on Dec. 14 in Okinawa, but it sold out before I bought tickets. Boo.

What conce​rts/​shows​ did you go to?
III MEF band's Christmas Concert, it's the Marine Corps band here

Where​ do you live now?
Oki

Descr​ibe your birth​day.

I woke up and opened my present from Benny -- a bag of Carmel kisses. Yummy. Surprised by cake from my co-workers. Lots of phone calls, emails and well wishes from friends throughout the world.

Did you get any tatto​os or pierc​ing?​
nada

What'​s the one thing​ you thoug​ht you would​ never​ do but did in 2008?​
Climb the Sydney Bridge with my sisters, eat a meatball dipped in a raw egg

What has/​have been your favor​ite momen​t(​s)​?
The baby's first ultrasound in August, my entire Australia vacation with Colleen and Rachel, month-long vacation to the States in July, road trip with Benny in March back to Minnesota/Iowa, Seabee Ball, nighttime leaf viewing in Kyoto. Gosh, 2008 was an awesome year!!!

What'​s somet​hing you learn​ed about​ yours​elf?​
I expect to have friends within two weeks of moving to a new location.

Any new addit​ions to your famil​y?
No.

What was your best month​?​
July

What music​ will you remem​ber 2008 by?
Any crappy song on AFN, Cupid's Shuffle to name one of many.

Who has been your best drink​ing buddy​?​
Alicia when I lived in Port Hueneme

Made new frien​ds?​
A few. I'm working on fostering a few more friendships here in Okinawa, but retaining the ones I have in the States.

Favor​ite Night​[​s]​ out?
Sushi night with the Olsens. Catch Phrase Night with Adam and Rachel here. Anytime we sing karaoke.

Any regre​ts?​
Can't think of any

What do you want to chang​e in 2009?​
Continue to work on a positive attitude, get more organized in my daily life.

Overa​ll,​ how would​ you rate this year?
9 out of 10


What would​ you chang​e about​ 2008?​
I would have all my friends and family in Okinawa with me ... but that's more of a dream than a tangible change, huh.

Other​ than home,​ where​ did you spend​ most of your time?​
In an airplane.

Any life chang​es in 2008?​
Pregnancy, international move to Japan

Chang​e your hairs​tyle?​
Chopped it so I could donate 10 inches to Locks of Love

Get a new job?
yes, "MCCS Consumer Relations, how many I help you?"

How old did you turn this year?​
29

Do you have a New Year'​s resol​ution​?
No

Did anyth​ing embar​rassi​ng?​
at least once a week, but I have a short-term memory about these kinds of things.

Are you happy​ to see 2008 go?
No because it was such a great year, but I'm excited to see what 2009 has in store for us.

Drank​ Starb​ucks in 2008?
Religiously until June 30.

Been naugh​ty or nice?​
Depends on who you ask

What are you wishi​ng for in 2009?​
Healthy baby, painless childbirth (hey a woman can dream, can't she?)

Illumination

Last weekend Benny and I went to the Southeast Botantical Garden's Christmas Paradise 2008. The gardens were illuminated in different animals themes and you were encouraged to take your photo everywhere. There was also a light and laser show set to music that ended with fireworks.

Benny and I took a couple of photos when the batteries in my camera died. Benny was in line to climb a ladder and take his photo next to the O in Okinawa on this palm tree when the camera died. Oh well, there is always next year.

Our Christmas Letter

メリークリスマスおよび明けましておめでとう
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

2008 was a year Benny and Michelle will never forget. We rang in the New Year with the Nevaris and Team Gabel in Reno, but the rest of the year is a blur.

This year we were honored to witness the union of six of our friends, Jason and Melinda in Sovlang, Calif., Jeremy and Andrea in Elko, Nev., and Tammy and Chris in Graeagle, Calif. We wish them a wonderful first Christmas as husband and wife.

In January, Michelle's sister Colleen and her boyfriend Adam came for an action-packed vacation that included front row seats on The Price is Right, a visit to Grandma Kann's house in San Diego, and cable car riding in San Francisco.


Before parting with California, we toured Big Sur and Monterey. It was a fun trip up the Pacific Coast Highway with a stop at Ragged Point Inn, a hotel Benny knew only from the stories when the Volkmann family stayed there (pre-Benny) more than 30 years ago. Our last visitors were Benny's friend Chris and his girlfriend Ulrike, who made the long side trip to Oxnard during their vacation to Las Vegas.


Before leaving for Japan, the V-Team Farewell Tour made stops in 10 states. After many miles on the open and sometimes snowy and icy road, Benny and Michelle pulled into an awesome surprise party in Minneapolis hosted by Benny's sisters. Before we knew it, we found ourselves on a 747 and after 14 hours of travel, the V-Team landed in Okinawa on April Fools Day.

So where is Okinawa? It took us a while to find it on the globe as we circled our fingers around the Japanese cities. This tropical paradise lies 956 miles south of Tokyo. The island is 60 miles long and 20 miles wide with countless scuba and snorkeling spots. Everything goes at its own pace, and nothing happens in a hurry. The people are friendly, and have a great work ethic (many regularly work Monday through Saturday). We enjoy the local cuisine, especially sushi until the doctors put dietary restrictions on Michelle's fish consumption during the pregnancy.

Less than two months here, Michelle got island fever and flew the coup to join her sisters in Australia for two weeks. Rachel was studying in Newcastle, and it was the first time the three sisters slept in the same room for more than one day since Rachel was a baby.


Benny has settled in as the Public Works Officer for the five naval bases on the island. It is a bit different working on the Navy's small corner of an Air Force base, but only 45 minutes away is the naval port. He has 48 people that provide facilities planning, engineering, environmental, repair, and transportation services to the Navy. As the aviators describe public works, “they're the people you call when you have a clogged toilet or when the power goes out.” We haven't seen too many clogged toilets, but you'd be surprised how often bats (with a 2-foot wingspan) fly into transformers and knock out the power.

Michelle answers customer complaints as a consumer relations specialist for Marine Corps Community Services. MCCS is the organization that provides gyms, restaurants and daycare centers for the seven Marine Corps bases on island. She also writes a monthly restaurant review for the marketing department's magazine.

Michelle and Benny went to a Navy conference in Waikiki in July. We would have never guessed we'd find ourselves in Hawaii again so soon, but thankfully it was on the Navy's dime. We got to see friends we hadn't seen in years, and swap sea stories, which didn't take long with only 5 years in the Navy.


We spent Thanksgiving on mainland Japan in Osaka and Kyoto. We thoroughly enjoyed viewing the fall colors and touring the historic areas of Japan.


The V-Team is eagerly awaiting the arrival of Baby Volkmann on or about March 1. We plan to visit the States this summer to celebrate more weddings and introduce either Olivia or Jack to her/his American family.


Wishing you a wonderful Christmas and many blessings in the year of the Ox (2009)!

The Okinawan Volkmanns

Christmas Spirit

I found myself in church on Christmas Eve waiting for the service to start. I got used to this with the Christmases we spent with Grandma Kann in California. Grandma got us to church so early, I don't even consider it early. It was an hour before the service started, so it was more like Grandma's social hour. About 45 mintues before the service, the Christmas songs started; before you knew it, the Christmas service would start. Grandma had the experience to know that if you arrived less than 30 minutes early to St. James on Christmas Eve, you would find yourself standing in the back. And that is not acceptable.

This was a new experience for me (arriving to church on time) before our time with Grandma Kann. Every Christmas Eve prior, the Volkmanns (all six of us) would pile in the station wagon or Volkmann-mobile and arrive just in time to file in the back (if there were still seats open). But sometimes we found ourselves unfolding chairs so we didn't have to stand the whole time.

Fast forward to December 24, 2008. Michelle and Benny arrived 15 minutes early only to see the previous Christmas service attendees leaving the chapel. So we had 15 minutes until the service was set to start. There is a lot of praying one can do in 15 minutes. The chaplain walked by, wished us Merry Christmas, stopped and smiled (still looking at us) before asking "Can you do the third reading for us tonight?" "Sure," Benny responded confidently. "Great thanks, Luke Chapter 2, verses 1-7. Then you two will light the third advent candle (third candle signifies love)." "Both of us?" Benny confirmed. "Yes, both of you will go up there for the reading and candle lighting," Chaps responded.

Time out here. You know when you get that feeling that the preacher is talking directly to you? Litterally, yes. But when he is addressing the whole congregation and you still feel he is talking directly to you is what I am talking about. This was one of those times, where I'm pretty sure the big man upstairs had something to do with how this all unfolded.

Of all the readings, five in all, Luke 2:1-7 is the part of the Christmas story that describes Joesph and Mary's journey to Bethlehem. Of course Mary is with child (exhibit A, Michelle with child) and Jesus is born in the barn and wrapped in swaddling clothes. Of all the readings, there could not have been a better one for us to read.

The other reason we knew the big man upstairs had something to do with this: The music tied to the reading was Ava Maria (exhibit B, one of our wedding songs). Many of you didn't see me before I walked down the aisle to meet Michelle at the altar at our wedding, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't have goosebumps about that biggest milestone of my life to date. In fact, I still get goosebumps at the sound of Ava Maria, as it reminds me not only of Mary and Jesus, but also of that awesome day in October, and how awesome and blessed we have been since.

We wish you all a very Merry Christmas and wonderful 2009, and hope the holiday spirit has touched you as it has us this Christmas.

Holiday photos

After attending chapel services, Benny made me a delicious dinner of oyster stew. It was my first time having it and I loved it.



Classic photo in front of the Christmas tree. I swear there is a tree behind me.


Web cam chat with Benny's family on Christmas morning.

Hearing Edelweiss equals trash day

I have a stinking situation at my house.

My garbage is only being taken away about half the time. I can't figure out why and I'm left scratching my head. I didn't think this would happen to me because I follow the rules. So my trash should go away three times a week. Simple as that.

Well maybe it's not so simple.

Here on Okinawa the rubbish rules are a bit more rigorous than my previous housing locations.

First of all we need to divide our waste material into two separate bags. One bag is for burnable waste and the other one is for nonburnable items. Luckily the housing company gave us a pamphlet illustrating what to do with common household items. I often refer to it. It saves me the brain power of pondering if an aluminum can is burnable.

Secondly Japanese trash bags aren't of the Reynolds or Glad variety. We have to use clear bags. I guess the reasoning is so that the trash man can see that we are properly sorting our food scraps and candy wrappers. These clear plastic bags are sold nearly everywhere including both on-base and off-base grocery stores. Depending where you live you may be required to use clear bags printed with Kanji letters. We are one of the lucky ones. We are not required to buy the printed bags.

Finally there is a separate bag for plastic bottles, referred to as PET. The bottle's label must be removed and placed with the lid in the burnable trash.

All these rules made me weary for our first trash day six months ago. I really wanted to get it right.

That Monday morning I compared my bag placement with my neighbors. I left my bag in the street gutter, where the trash man wouldn't miss it. Then I waited for the musical notes of "Edelweiss." The garbage truck plays this “Sound of Music” tune so that you know when it is trash day. When I heard it directly in front of our townhouse, I rushed downstairs.

I was prepared to talk to the trash man. I bowed. He bowed. I nodded. He nodded. I tried to ask "is this alright?" using my Japanese for Dummies book. He smiled and placed my trash in the back of his truck. I patted myself on the back. On my first attempt I mastered the ritual of trash separation.

Everything was fine until two weeks ago.

That's when our trash started sitting in our driveway all day. And a question nagged me: What's wrong with our rubbish?

It's not like the garbage man is dismissing me. He took the time to tape a notice to my trash can. He stapled a second notice to the bag itself. But since both were written in Kanji, the written language of Japanese, it is no help. It may be written in plain English -- or should I say plain Japanese – but I can't follow the rules because I can't read the rules. It's time to put on my thinking cap.

Then last Friday we get a letter from our housing company saying that we must use “the appropriate bags” for Kadena. The answer came in English. The letter showed a picture of the bag. It's a clear bag with a picture of a turtle printed on it. I was so thankful.

I was also thankful to a patient woman at the grocery store, who took the time to point out the correct bags to me.

And I'll be most thankful if the trash man takes my garbage on Friday. His arrival will be music to my ears.

A White Elephant Party doesn't mean all the gifts are elephant themed

On Saturday, I went to a Marine Corps base on the northern side of the island to work at the Christmas Festival. With wonderful donations from Toys R Us, the marketing department was able to give out prize packages of Barbies and Hot Wheels to 40 children. It was a lot of fun to see the children's excitement when I told them that they won a prize.



In the evening, Benny and I attended an Okinawan Christmas Party, hosted by Navy friends, Steve and Melissa. (Background: Steve is from Nebraska and his dad is also a corn farmer named Roy. He is an engineer in the Navy like Benny. Melissa is from Wisconsin so she is a Packer fan and a dentist in the Navy. They have two cute daughters, ages 2 years old and 3 months old.)


This is a picture of Melissa and the "white elephant" mugs she won at the party.

So since the theme was Okinawa, we ate fish, rice and chicken instead of turkey, mashed potatoes and ham. It was a potluck with everyone bringing something to share. I brought a batch of Marie's famous Swedish meatballs and Lydia's 7-Up Jello salad, which I even made in a Christmas tree shaped mold. Pretty exciting.

After dinner, we participated in my favorite part, the white elephant gift exchange. One of the ensigns didn't know what a white elephant gift exchange was, so we have been teasing him for weeks. But he caught on quick: he walked away with the cordless drill that every man in the room was eyeing.

Benny came home with a back massager, for me. I took home this display of the 8 gods of happiness in Japanese spirituality. Again, I was the person taking the photos, so there isn't any photos of Benny and I. But plenty of everyone else at the party.

Forgetting the year with sushi and sake

On Friday, Benny's co-workers held a bonenkai at a hole-in-the-wall bar. A bonenkai is a traditional end-of-the-year party where co-workers gather to literally "forget the year." The purpose is to say goodbye to the troubles of the past year and celebrate the good fortune expected in the upcoming year. Since Benny's office is made up of Japanese and American workers, they decided to hold a bonenkai, but instead of dressing up (which is traditional), it was casual and spouses, including me could come.

As you can see we had a wide variety of food choices and plenty of sake to sample. Heavy drinking is another traditional of this party. Bonenkais are not held on a specific day, but can take place anytime in December.

I took this picture of the group when we first got there, but forget to take a picture of the whole group, including Benny and I.

Breakfast in Japan

I'm a creature of habit.

On Mondays through Fridays, I eat a bowl of oatmeal or cereal for breakfast. On the weekends, Benny and I make a large breakfast, usually pancakes, eggs and fresh fruit. This is my breakfast routine and I think it's pretty typical of an American.

So when Jeremy asked me what the Japanese eat for breakfast, I was struck by the question. What do the Japanese eat for breakfast?

Driving around Okinawa didn't provide any obvious answers. There aren't restaurants specializing in a morning meal like we have in the States. Sure there are bakeries, but most don't have tables and you can't eat there. I found one coffee shop that served eggs, pancakes and omelets. But I've only seen Americans eat there.

In my quest for an answer, I turned to Google.

On a travel Web site, I found Jeremy isn't the only inquisitive one. One person posted this question: "What would be a recommended traditional Tokyo breakfast be?" before heading to Japan's capital.

Most of the responses were disappointing. Unlike European countries, there isn't a traditional Japanese breakfast. Actually the Japanese can eat anything they want for breakfast. But most eat steamed rice with fish and miso soup. The drink of choice: green tea.

I found an answer, but I wasn't satisfied. I needed to do more research. So I observed Japanese tourists eating at the complimentary breakfast buffet at a hotel in downtown Osaka.

The buffet options were extensive. Besides my American-friendly breakfast choices of scrambled eggs, ham and crescent rolls, the restaurant also served fish, a lettuce salad, canned cocktail fruit, beans, tofu and takoyaki, which is Japanese grilled octopus. The beverage choices were coffee, tomato juice, whole milk and orange juice.

There was no cereal or oatmeal. I wanted to have takoyaki for breakfast since it is one of my favorite foods, but I couldn't do it. My stomach grumbled that it was hungry, but my mind and my mouth said this isn't right. Benny braved it and had takoyaki for breakfast both mornings.

I nibbled on a hard boiled egg as I watched my fellow patrons.

One guy had a tray filled with pancakes, ham, miso soup, a bowl of rice covered in soy sauce and french fries topped with ketchup.

At the table next to me, a woman ate a bowl of cabbage topped with Japanese salad dressing. Then she ate a plate of french fries, two pieces of toast with melted butter and a bowl of miso soup topped with dried seaweed. Next to her, a child was chewing on french fries.

For me, certain foods are clearly defined as appropriate for specific times of day. And even though breakfast can be consumed all day at restaurants such as Denny's or IHOP, steak and mashed potatoes isn't an option at 6 a.m.

The Japanese have a flexibility in their food pairings that doesn't seem to exist in the United States. We are much more rigid in what entrée is properly paired with a side dish. For example, fish is a food for lunch or dinner. It can't be consumed for breakfast.

The one nontraditional breakfast food I wanted -- a bowl of ice cream -- wasn't on the buffet at the hotel in Osaka. Even the Japanese and their attitude of anything goes in the morning draws the line somewhere.

I guess I'll have to eat a plate of french fries with my chopsticks instead.

Where else but in Okinawa

Benny and I were going to the movie theater on Sunday afternoon when we both turned and yelled "goat!" Apparently goats don't need seatbelts in Okinawa.

Ground golf, anyone?

On Saturday afternoon, the weather was picture perfect. Not a cloud in the sky. Sunny, warm with a slight breeze. The kind of day that makes you love living in Okinawa.

Benny and I went to a Friendship Picnic jointly hosted by the Navy and some Japanese locals who live near the Navy base. I played volleyball with some Japanese and American children before eating a lunch of chicken and beef prepared by the Japanese. The Americans brought the side dishes.

After lunch, the real competitive fun started: A ground golf tournament.

Ground golf is like croquet, except for the mallets are shaped a bit differently and your "hole" is a metal circle where the ball must stop inside the circle in order to complete that hole. This outdoor game is very popular in Japan, especially among senior citizens. In the park behind our house there is a group of old men and women who play daily starting around 7 a.m.

Benny and I first played ground golf at the YYY resort on Labor Day weekend on Ie island. I'm terrible at it. Benny is better than me. So he played on Saturday, while I was the official photographer for the tournament.




Smile for the camera ground golf player.


Here is Benny digging his ball out of an obstacle hole. He also had trouble avoiding the sand volleyball court.


This is serious business.

Benny walked away with the last place in the tournament. But because the Japanese have a group mentality in their culture, everyone got a prize. My wrapped gift was a travel coffee mug, which the guy who gave it to me said it was "for the baby." Benny got a eco-LED flashlight. It is a flashlight that doesn't require batteries. You squeeze a trigger on it and the light turns on. Benny has been playing with it all day. It's his new favorite toy.

Finally my life becomes like Army Wives

On Friday night, Benny and I went to our second Christmas party of the month: an Open House at the Navy Captain's house hosted by him and his wife.

Again we had a fancy invitation which detailed the dress code: open collar casual. We Googled this phrase a few weeks ago so we knew that Benny could wear slacks and a button down shirt, no tie required. I was instructed to wear a pretty dress.

We arrived a little after 8 p.m. to discovered a couple of Navy guys directing traffic and telling us where to park. Hmmmm, I guess this party is kind of a big deal.

When we arrived there was a large crowd there made up of a Navy people that Benny works with, along with Japanese government officials and high ranking officers from the other branches stationed at Okinawa. There were tents, waitresses and Christmas decorations everywhere. There was a full buffet (which I didn't eat anything from because I made dinner before we left) and an open bar. Yup, a catered meal with an ice sculpture of a eagle and a decorated turkey that said "Merry Christmas." It was a scene out of the show "Army Wives."

Sadly I wanted to document the entire party for my loyal readers, but forgot my camera at home. So you will have to take my word on this one.

"Did he have a high heel in his pocket?"

One never knows what to expect when you are heading to a Navy mandatory fun function. I usually keep my expectations low in case the fun factor is lacking.

Thursday night Benny and I went to the club on Camp Shields (oh-rah Seabees) for the Navy's commandwide Christmas party for Okinawa. Everyone was invited, but it was mostly a yearend appreciation to the active duty and their spouses. No children allowed. Dinner and dancing. An all you can eat buffet. And we were informed that people dress up for this shindig.

We came wearing what I call our "church clothes." I was wearing a dress and heels. Benny was wearing slacks and a button down shirt. No tie. The clothing was pretty diverse with ladies wearing everything from slacks and a sweater to a low-cut evening gown. Many of the men were in suits with ties, with the exception of the Navy pilots who coordinated their suspenders and Christmas bow ties. Unforunately I forgot to get a picture of those characters.

After dinner, the MC announced there would be a "Best Dressed Competition" and he needed female contestants. A woman sitting across from me suggested I join the fun. "You look cute." Are you crazy, I was thinking? There are women showing off their booties and their breasts, I can only emphasis my belly. I ducked into the bathroom. I return only after the contestants start to strut their stuff to the song "I'm Too Sexy."



At this point, I'm EXTREMELY grateful I didn't enter the contest. Imagine my red face when that song started playing.

Next up ... the men's "Best Dressed Competition." The MC didn't have any trouble getting a crowd of men to show off their clothes. I swear men have no shame. So each one is doing a dance as their "display," when one contestant goes to the head table on his turn and grinds against the Captain's wife. Hilarious to say the least. If only I would have been quick enough to get a picture of that. By the way, the captain and his wife are very fun people who enjoyed the joke as much as everyone else in the room. But that guy didn't win the competition. The guy dressed in his Navy uniform (the cracker Jack suit, as I call it) received the most votes.



After the fashion show, they grew names for a scavenger hunt and guess whose name was picked out of the box: Benny.



Benny made it through the first few rounds. He got a government driver's license, 1 yen coin and command coin without any problems. With only three contestants remaining he wasn't quick enough with the final task: Find a high heel. I swear the other two guys were wearing high heels with their lightning speed return rates. So instead of a $100 gift card to the Exchange, we came home with vanilla toffee suckers and lots of laughs from the evening.

Only 14 weeks to go

The latest and greatest belly shot. I'm currently at 28 weeks and come Christmas, I'll be 30 weeks and in my final trimester.

Longest Birthday Ever

Thank you to everyone who called or emailed today to tell me Happy 29th Birthday! I'm sure more well wishes are coming once the calendar page is switched to Dec. 2 in the States. I may be an ocean away, but I feel your love on my special day.

My birthday was uneventful this year. I went to work, had lunch with a friend and was very surprised when my co-workers entered my office singing "Happy Birthday" and carrying a chocolate cake. Being prego, I was so overwhelmed with emotion, I started crying. How embarrassing.

Benny, who is out of the country right now, had this flower arrangement delivered to my office. The flowers are arranged in a traditional Japanese style called ikebana.
It's very zen. And they smell wonderful too.

Kyoto's beauty

We went to Kyoto to see the red maple leaves and Mother Nature did not disappoint.

The view from the top

With full bellies, we walked to the twin towers of the Umeda Sky Building. At 173 meters (576 feet) high, you take a sideways glass escalator to the Floating Garden Observatory. (We saw this in the television show Amazing Race a few seasons ago.)Before you read any further I want to point out that there is no garden at the Floating Garden Observatory. The observatory is centered between the two towers. You can go up on the deck and view the Osaka skyline. Or you can stay inside a glass-encased observatory, which happened to be themed a "Sweetheart Christmas" while we were there.

We drank hot chocolate, ate a sweetheart sundae, listened to carols in English and cuddled in a chair that was built for a Japanese couple. With my prego belly it was a tight fit for the three of us.



The observatory had high tech displays that were Christmas-themed for this month. Besides this tree there was also love room where you sat on a bubble bench and how you shifted your weight would create a geometric light pattern on the floor.



Plus we were given a silver star cut-out to write a wish. We placed each star in an offertory-like box you typically see at shrines and temples.



In the courtyard near the towers we stumbled upon a German Christmas Market. Vendors, who came from Hamburg, were selling German food, drink, nutcrackers, Advent calendars and all things German. We sampled some German pizza and green apple licorice.



Besides the village of vendors, there was also a Christmas "tree" of lights and Nativity scene.
This photo was taken from the 38 story of the Sky Building.

At the end of evening as we walked back to the hotel I was wondering if I took a wrong turn and ended up in my grandmother's homeland.

No turkey sushi, but plenty of octopus

We woke up Thanksgiving morning with one plan: fly to Osaka. Since it was an American holiday I expected the airport to be packed with travelers. It wasn't because we were at the domestic terminal. From the moment we dropped off our car to the time we sat down on the plane every person we encountered seemed surprise that we weren't flying internationally. Apparently if you are a white American you must return to the States in November.

Instead we did something more exciting and visited the second largest city in Japan. Rainy weather greeted us, but since our hotel was in the heart of the city, there was no time for rest and relaxation. We needed to explore.

There is a Japanese saying: Kyoto kidaore; Osaka kuidaore which means that Kyoto-ites will go bankrupt from buying kimonos; Osakans from eating out too much. To honor this statement, our first stop was a takoyaki restaurant near the subway in the basement of our hotel.

Benny described our love for takoyaki and other foods from Osaka in an anticipation posting about this trip, so I won't go into great detail here. But basically takoyaki is a meatball-sized ball made up of batter, herbs and octopus. Here in Okinawa we can only buy them from street vendors.

In Osaka (the birthplace of takoyaki) you can cook your own at a table, just as we saw on the Travel Channel's No Reservations episode filmed in Osaka.

We excitedly entered the restaurant for an early dinner, but the waiter didn't look as excited to see us. He seated us and handed us an English menu. We ordered and waited for our instructions.

Luckily a couple sat at the table across from us, so we could mimic their movements. They greased their takoyaki grill. We greased ours. They looked through the condiments on the table. We smelled ours. They looked at us annoyed. We glanced in the opposite direction.



Within minutes the waiter dropped our octopus pieces onto the grill and covered the grill with the batter. We were each handed our cooking weapon: a steel pick. We looked at him dumbfounded. He sighed and proceeded to talk in rapid Japanese with lots of gestures. At each pause, Benny replied hai or yes.

Once the waiter left, I asked Benny if he understood him. Not a word, he said. So we returned to our method of stalking the other takoyaki patrons.



As the batter cooks, you must move the pick between the individual ball to break up the batter. You have to pop the bubbles that form in each ball. And at some point flip the balls, again with just your pick. The waiter came back to demonstrate that movement. It looks so much easier on television.



Top with tasty takoyaki sauce, fish flakes and Japanese mayo and serve hot. Take your chopsticks and eat. Mmmmmm.



In the end we had yummy (but not pretty) takoyaki for our Thanksgiving feast.

If you want to watch a takoyaki demostration video I found on YouTube, click here.